A Not-So-Pumpkin Pie

In the search for Thanksgiving desserts, you're looking for something seasonal, traditional enough to put people in their comfort zone, but different enough to avoid being boring. In this quest, I also wanted to get rid of the glut of butternut squash that was building up from the CSA. Enter a pie, reminiscent of the classic pumpkin, but spicier, silkier, and I think tastier.


I prefer not to roast the halved squash, but cut it into chunks, which caramelize better, lending more depth of flavor to the dish. For a truly amazing, flaky and flavorful crust that doesn't get soggy, use this all butter version, made with no more equipment then a bowl, your fingers and a rolling pin. Although I've always made food processor or pastry cutter crusts, I've recently been converted back to the handmade version, which is infinitely more consistently great.

Gingered Butternut Squash Pie


1 9-inch blind baked pie shell, see preparation below

1 large or 2 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into large to medium sized chunks (enough for 1 1/2 cups puree)
1 cup tightly packed dark brown sugar
3 large eggs
3/4 cup low-fat evaporated milk
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp allspice
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp salt
2 Tbsp all purpose flour
1 Tbsp melted butter
1 tsp vanilla

Preheat the oven to 400 F, with the oven rack in the middle. Oil a jelly roll pan and scatter squash pieces across it. Roast until soft and just slightly caramelized. Reduce oven temp to 350 and move rack to the bottom third of oven. Transfer squash to a food processor and puree until smooth. Add all other ingredients and puree for at least 3 minutes, until silky smooth. Pour into prepared pie shell. Bake for 50-60 minutes (check after 30 min to see if you'll need to shield the pie crust with some aluminum foil). The pie is done when you can insert a toothpick in the middle and it comes out clean. Transfer to a cooling rack and cool completely before serving (this step is really important because it doesn't fully set until cool). Serve with whipped cream.


Tender, Flaky All Butter Pie Crust

6 oz all-purpose flour (about 1 1/3 cups but you really ought to weigh it)
1 tsp sugar
1/3 tsp salt
8 Tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
3 to 4 Tbsp ice water

Combine flour, sugar, salt and butter in a large bowl. Toss, then rub the butter bits with your fingertips, slowly smearing the butter into the flour. You want to form small flaky chunks in the mixture. Once all of the butter has been incorporated this way, Sprinkle ice water over the dough and use your hands to push and mix it together, adding more water if necessary, until the dough just sticks together when you press it into a ball. Gather all of the dough into a disk, plastic wrap it and stash it in the fridge for at least an hour or overnight.

Let the dough soften slightly before rolling by sitting out at room temp for 5-20 minutes (5 if it's been chilling for an hour, 20 if it's been a day or so). You want the dough to be cold and firm but still fairly easy to roll. On a floured countertop, roll the dough out into a 10 or 11 inch round (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to a pie plate and crimp the edges (for the wheat inspired crimp seen here, use kitchen shears to snip the folded over edges of the crust in abut 1/2 inch at a 45 degree angle every 1/2 inch or so around the entire edge. Then fold alternating sections in and out to resemble the grain). Prick bottom and sides with a fork and chill for one hour.

Preheat the oven to 425 F while you allow the crust to warm up a bit from the fridge (not too long - should be moderately cold still). Line the crust with aluminum foil and weight it with dried beans. Bake for 15 min in the middle of the oven, then reduce heat to 375, remove the foil and beans and let bake for 5-7 minutes more. Cool on a rack while you make the filling.

Fry So Good...

Baby eggplants are something that always intrigue me - shiny and cute, I fall for it every time. And then I get them home and I don't have a clue what to do with them. Unfortunately, more than one pint of these mini-aubergines has wasted away in my produce drawer. So when I got a bag in my CSA I was determined not to let them go to waste. After racking my brain, an application finally dawned on me that wouldn't result in small mushy veggies (it's the texture I can't do). A quick peel and a dip in the deep fryer turns these babies into crispy, salty, melting hot fries that I think top the potato variety. These work equally well with a large eggplant cut into matchsticks

Eggplant Fries


20 baby eggplants
1 cup flour
1 1/2 cup water
Vegetable oil for frying

Peel and halve or quarter the baby eggplant. Whisk together flour and water to make a light batter. Toss with eggplant. Preheat oil to 375 degrees F in a deep, heavy bottomed saucepan (oil should come about 1/2 way up the sides). Carefully add a small batch of eggplant to the pot. Fry until golden brown. Remove to paper towels and salt liberally. Repeat in small batches until done. Eat while hot (although they do reheat well on a baking sheet in a toaster oven).

Apples & Spice & Everything Nice

I don't need to tell you again how much I love fall, how I smile more in cooler air, how cider sets my heart a flutter, the smell of wood burning stoves gets me out of bed on the most difficult mornings, how the colors in the treetops continue to inspire and drive me. Surely I've said enough about this while extolling the virtues of butternut squash salads and tarts, warm spiced nuts, melt in your mouth pot roast, and gooey pear laden pumpkin spice sticky rolls.


And as if you haven't gotten enough apples with apple crisp and cider donuts, I'm back to overdose you and every friend I can gather on my favorite fruit. This time it comes in the form of a lovely carrot cakesque layer cake, complete with cream cheese frosting. While this is no friend to the calorie counter, it will be a welcome guest at any fall birthday or dinner party, and it's currently auditioning for a role in my annual Thanksgiving line up.

Apple Spice Cake


2 medium Gala, Fugi, Braeburn or other sweet firm apple, peeled and cut into 1/3 inch cubes
2 Tbsp cognac (you can substitute bourbon or caldavos)

2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 cup dark brown sugar
3 jumbo eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp pecan extract (if you can't find it use almond or more vanilla)
3 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 cups unsweetened applesauce
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp allspice
1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp freshly ground green cardamom (one of those ingredients that you can leave out, but it will be missing some depth)
2 cups toasted pecan halves, divided

8 oz cream cheese at room temp
1 stick unsalted butter at room temp
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp pecan extract
pinch of salt
3 cups powdered sugar


After dicing the apple, allow it to macerate in the cognac for about an hour (the addition of macerated dried apple is also great in this).

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter and flour two 9 inch cake pans. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter until soft then cream in the sugars. Beat in each egg, one at a time, followed by the extracts. Sift in 1 cup flour and mix, then add 3/4 cup applesauce, mixing again, followed by another cup flour and remaining applesauce. Finish by sifting in the remaining flour with baking powder and soda and spices. Mix until just blended. Crumble in 1 1/2 cups toasted pecans and add macerated apples, then stir to combine. Divide evenly between 2 cake pans and bake for about 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Cool completely before frosting.

To make the frosting, blend cream cheese and butter until creamy and soft. Add extracts and salt, mix thoroughly. Sift powdered sugar into cream cheese mixture and beat until well combined. Apply liberally between and around cake layers. Top with remaining 1/2 cup pecans.

You Got Canned (sort of): Episode 2 - Molly, you're a genius!

If you've managed to grab a copy of Molly Wizenberg's (the face of Orangette) new book "A Homemade Life" or you've been paying attention to anything on Tastespotting lately, then you've probably seen this recipe already. But it is too good to pass up. Who would've known that a grape would taste so interesting pickled? Well...um.. apparently Molly would. You've got to be the next to try this recipe - easy pickles in your fridge - no canning skills necessary (Although it's certainly possible to can these if you so desire).

Of course I have to modify everything - so I subbed some grape juice for some of the vinegar - it was a bit strong for my taste and changed the spices up a little.



Pickled Grapes


1 lb. seedless concord grapes
3/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup grape juice
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tsp pickling spice
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick
1 star anise pod
1/4 tsp salt

Clean the grapes, then cut the stem end off just a bit, removing the "belly button" to expose some of the flesh to the pickling liquid. Stuff the grapes into a quart sized jar. Heat the remaining ingredients in a saucepan, bringing the mixture to a boil.


Pour the hot mixture down over the grapes. Refrigerate for at least two days - they should keep for at least a few weeks.

Getting Baked...Twice!

I've had a glut of scallions and potatoes from the CSA lately. Although normally I would turn to Loaded Potato Soup, it's been approaching 100 degrees in Baltimore and soup is just not an option. So I turned instead to Twice Baked Potatoes - admittedly the oven does get some use, but it's not nearly as bad as standing over a simmering pot. This is classic American - like overstuffed potato skins - a guilty pleasure. They're just so good!

Twice Baked Stuffed Potatoes


4 large or 7 medium russet potatoes, scrubbed clean
olive oil

1 Tbsp butter
2/3 cup light sour cream
8 oz. shredded 2% sharp cheddar cheese
3 large scallions, sliced thin
6 slices hickory smoked bacon, cooked until crisp
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ancho chile powder

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Rub potatoes with olive oil and put on a baking sheet. Roast until cooked through, about an hour.

Using an oven mitt to hold the potato, slice down the middle and scoop the insides into a bowl, leaving a 1/4 inch of potato around the skins. Set aside skins and mash butter and sour cream into potato. Stir in 2/3 of the cheese, all of the scallions, bacon and seasonings. Refill the skins with the potato mixture, pressing it into the skins. Press remaining cheese on top. Bake for another 15-20 minutes at 350 degrees.

You Got Canned: Episode 1 - Everything's Better Pickled

I have a confession to make. I am a canning addict and I've been on a binge. I've tried to blame it on my CSA - they just keep giving me all of this amazing produce - too much amazing produce, and there's no way the two of us could stuff it all in our stomach but I just can't let it go to waste. But to be fair, if I didn't have the fabulous organic pick-up every week I would still be canning up a storm. It's something about the gorgeous jewel boxes of produce stands this time of year, the seductive smooth skins of tomatoes, berries, corn, beets, peaches, peppers, melons, squash, etc, etc in every color of the rainbow. It's too good to last, but it makes you want to preserve its beauty forever.

Plus there's the whole vinegary pickley fantasticness that we've all been in love with since we were kids that stopped dead in our tracks at the site of the big pickle barrel in the country store. Really - what doesn't taste better pickled?


So you'll be hearing a lot about my canning problem in the next few weeks. I've already attacked bread and butter zucchini pickles, peach raspberry jam, slow roasted tomatoes, pickled grapes, and black raspberry lime preserves. Coming up next will be homemade jarred roasted yellow peppers and a corn and tomatillo relish. Who knows where I'll go from there (although the upcoming school year may slow me down a bit).


But now, for my first pickling foray, my favorite pickled classic, the sweet yet sour ruby slices of the humble beet.

Citrusy Pickled Beets-makes 2 pints


6-8 medium to large beets
2/3 cup water
2/3 cup orange muscat vinegar (of course you can substitute white vinegar)
1/2 cup sugar
zest and juice of a lemon
2 sprigs thyme

Prepare a boiling water canner and sterilize 2 pint jars (I do this in the dishwasher on a sterilize cycle). Cover lids with water in a saucepan and bring to a simmer - do not boil!

Scrub beets and put in a pot, covered with water. Boil until almost fork tender. Rinse in cold water until cooled, slipping off the skins. Slice 1/4 inch thick.


Combine remaining ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil for 2-3 minutes. Add the beet slices and boil for 10 minutes.


Ladle into sterilized jars and run a small spatula down the insides of the jars to clear any air bubbles. Leave 1/2 inch of head space. Clean the rims and top with lids - process for 25 minutes in a boiling water bath. Remove from the canner and let cool on a kitchen towel overnight. Store for up to a year and enjoy!

Dinner's Going Green

"Green" - it's no longer just a color, it's a catchphrase for easy environmental fixes. One thing is for sure, we've abused our planet for a long time, selfishly exploiting its resources, and now it's fighting back. We're entering a period of consequences, and unfortunately we are not yet rising to the challenge in a way that will ensure our future. Green has become the word of the moment, but only for baby steps. As much as every little bit counts, baby steps will not take us the miles we need to go before time runs out.

Hot, Flat and Crowded is a fantastic book about the challenges we are facing and the best ways to rise up and seize the American entrepreneurial spirit to reduce the effects of our dependence on fossil fuels. I highly recommend it to everyone, since this is an issue we will all have to face. I hope President Obama has read it as well. If America leads the world towards higher efficiency standards and cleaner fuels, the world will follow, and probably respect us a little more as well.

As for steps we all can take without the government's help, green baby steps are still better than a lack of forward motion. Energy star appliances, SMALL hybrid cars, reusable grocery bags and compact florescent bulbs are tremendously helpful in cutting CO2 admissions when everyone starts to use them. Reducing electricity use, by using power strips that cut power to appliances and chargers when not in use and driving less are a huge help. We have only used the air conditioner in our house a handful of days this summer. A little sweat has paid off with more money in our pockets.

CSAs are a great way for foodies to be a little more green. Community supported agriculture means food travels only a few miles from farm to table, drastically reducing its carbon footprint. Plus local small farms stay solvent, not caving to sell their valuable land to developers of McMansion complexes. And we get the freshest produce possible, so everyone wins. One Straw Farm gives me so much organic produce that I've only had to go grocery shopping once since school let out. Which has meant way less miles on my car and way more money in my pocket.

So here's a green meal with a green sauce that will rock your taste buds and get you going on a greener path to change.

Grilled Stuffed Patty Pan Squash and Fish with Salsa Verde


Grilled Salsa Verde
4-5 tomatillos, husked and washed then halved
2 tomatoes, washed and halved
1 small red onion, halved
1 jalapeno
2 Tbsp lime juice
1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Preheat a grill to high heat. Brush the tomatillos, tomatoes, onion and jalapenos with vegetable oil. Grill them all over high heat until tomatillos and tomatoes are carmelized and onion and jalapeno are charred. Chop up the tomatillos, tomatoes and onion. Seed and stem the jalapeno and mince. Toss them all with lime juice and cilantro. Let sit for 15 minutes for flavors to meld. (Leave the grill on low for the squash.

Stuffed Squash
2 cups chicken stock
1 Tbsp lime juice
1 Tbsp butter
3/4 cup white rice
1 Tbsp chile powder
1 tsp cumin
1 Tbsp chopped cilantro
1/2 cup shredded mexican cheese

6 medium patty pan squash

Bring chicken stock, lime juice and butter to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add rice and spices and reduce to low. Cover and cook until rice has absorbed the water, and is al dente, about 20 minutes. Toss in about a third of the salsa verde and the rest of the cilantro along with the cheese.

While you're waiting for the rice to cook, slice the tops off of the patty pans and hollow out the insides with a spoon. Brush the squash with olive oil and put top side down on the covered grill to cook and char a bit. After the tops are charred, stuff with rice and put back on the grill, but right side up this time. Cook until tender and evenly charred.


Finishing it off...
2 (1/3 lb.) filets of firm white fish, such as halibut or cod

Brush the fish with vegetable oil and season well with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat until just cooked - about 2 minutes per side for thick filets. Serve over remaining rice with squash on the side and salsa on top.

Ducking Out

Duck was a common thread throughout my childhood. It was the go-to dish in my father's restaurant repertoire, whether it was orangey Siam duck at our favorite Asian restaurant (the miniscule thai, vietnamese, cambodian hybrid Gourmet House in Providence), the rich duck leg with port sauce at Chardonnays (my favorite restaurant of all time), in tiny drumstick form at that abhorrently expensive fancy-pants terrace in Nova Scotia or any other fine establishment where it popped up on the menu. I guess some kids must think of duck as something you feed at the park and chase around, but I knew better. That was one tasty bird! So while my friends did (and often still do) squirm and squeal at the thought, I relish my duck to myself. Unfortunately I've still managed to convert some along the way, which just means less duck for me.

My husband is a prime example of this. He'd never even considered trying duck until I convinced him to take a bite of the aforementioned Siam version. Now he orders it as often as my father did. I cooked my first duck at home for my first dinner party, and it became one of my first recipes on this site. It was nerve-racking and time-consuming and I've since learned to be smarter about cooking for a crowd, but it was delicious. It didn't deter me from trying again, and subsequent projects have led to successes that include the rich duck broth that graced my soup dumplings.

When honeymooning at Lone Mountain Ranch (which I HIGHLY recommend in every facet - but especially for the food), duck came up on the menu a couple of times. Our first night we lingered for 3 hours over the best meal of my life so far which of course included a seared duck breast and leg of duck confit with a cherry demi-glace. (Of course they outdid themselves with my new best meal ever on our last night with prosciutto wrapped quail over herbed spätzle - but that's a story for another time). Later meals also included duck confit crepes and a huckleberried version.

So as you can see, duck and I go way back. In all truth, our relationship is better when we just meet for dinner with little foreplay. But I've found a way around it. You get succulent, flavorful duck with crispy skin and tender flesh in relatively little time with almost no work. This is the way to do duck at home - on the grill with a sticky sweet glaze! Give it a try - or on second thought, maybe you shouldn't! More for me that way! :)

Grilled Duck with Gingered Sticky Glaze


Spice Rub
2 Tbsp ground ginger
1 Tbsp garlic powder
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp 5 spice powder
1 tsp black pepper
1 1/2 tsp salt
2 Tbsp brown sugar

Combine all ingredients and mix well.

Glaze
1/4 cup orange blossom honey
1/4 cup somewhat bitter marmalade
1/4 cup cream sherry
2 tablespoons grated ginger
1 Tbsp finely minced garlic
an orange - zest removed with a veggie peeler and juice squeezed and reserved
1 cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf

Combine honey, marmalade, orange juice and sherry in a small saucepan over medium heat until they start to melt and blend together. Add ginger, garlic, orange zest, cinnamon stick and bay leaf and bring to a simmer. Reduce until very thick (easily coats a spoon without running off.) Let cool.

And now...the duck itself!
1 4-5 lb. duck
1 orange, quartered
1 sweet onion, peeled and quartered

Preheat the grill (gas or charcoal) to a low indirect heat of about 300 to 325 F. If you are using charcoal, gather the coals to both sides and put a drip pan under the middle to cook the duck over. If you are using gas, use only the outer burners and place a drip pan directly under the grate.

Remove any visible fat or pin feathers from your duck, give it a good rinse and pat dry with a paper towel. Prick the skin all over with a sharp knife, taking care to just go through the skin and not into the meat. Rub the skin and the inside of the cavity with the spice rub. Stuff the cavity with alternating pieces of orange and onion.

Place the duck over the drip pan on the unheated side of the grill. Close the lid and cook for one hour, rotating halfway. Check to make sure the duck is cooking evenly and the drip pan is not overflowing. Cook for another half hour, rotating after 15 minutes or until sin is starting to get crispy. Brush with glaze, rotate and cook for 10 minutes at a time, repeating until the temperature of the thigh meat reaches 155 F. At that point, remove from the heat, cover with foil and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.